Made to measure · or six ready sizes

Thornleigh Overcoat

£1,180 VAT included

In stock · 4 fitting slots left in March · ready sizes ship in 2 days

A single-breasted coat that finishes just above the knee, cut from 740g ink navy melton with an oxblood twill under-collar and horn buttons. Half-lined so it moves, with a deep centre vent for stairs and bicycles.

Size Ready sizes · measurements in the table below

Cloth All three are 740g melton from the same mill

Book a fitting first

Free UK delivery · 30 days to return a ready size · first alteration free

What arrives

The coat folded in unbleached tissue inside a heavy cotton bag you can keep it in all summer. A small envelope holds two spare horn buttons and a metre of the matching thread. The cloth card names the mill, the weight and the date the piece was woven, and it is written by hand because the mill sends it that way.

For a ready size there is also a pre-paid return label. No boxes inside boxes, no tissue confetti, no card asking you to photograph it.

Delivery

Ready sizes leave Hexham the same day and arrive in two working days: £5.50, or free over £150. Next day before one o'clock is £9.50. Europe is £18 and five to eight days.

A made-to-measure coat is delivered free, anywhere, and takes seven to nine weeks from the fitting.

Returns

Thirty days on a ready size, unworn with the ticket on, postage paid both ways. Money back within a week of the parcel reaching us.

A made-to-measure coat cannot be returned — it fits one person. It can be altered, free, as often as it takes in the first year.

Size and fit, in centimetres

Garment measurements, not body measurements. Lay your own coat flat, measure it the same way, and compare — it is far more reliable than measuring yourself.

Thornleigh Overcoat · ready sizes · all figures in centimetres, measured flat and doubled where marked
SizeChest, flat ×2Waist, flat ×2ShoulderSleeve, centre backLength, centre backFits a chest of
3610410044.082.010489–93
3811010645.583.510694–98
4011611247.085.010899–103
4212211848.586.5110104–108
4412812450.088.0112109–113
4613413051.589.5114114–118

If you are between two sizes

Take the larger one. A coat is worn over a jacket, and the chest figure above has to carry both — 15cm of ease over your bare chest is the minimum that works. If the larger size then hangs wide at the waist, we take 4cm out of the back seam for nothing in the first month; that is a twenty-minute job and it is the alteration we do most.

Sleeves are the one place to ignore this. Order for the chest and let us shorten the cuff: three buttons are stitched and unpicked in ten minutes, and 2cm either way changes how the coat reads completely.

What made to measure changes

A ready size moves one number: the chest, in 6cm steps, with everything else graded off it. Made to measure moves eleven, and the four that matter are not in the table at all — the slope of your shoulders, the pitch the sleeve is hung at, the length of your back to the waist, and whether one shoulder sits lower than the other. Nearly everyone's does.

It adds £160 and seven to nine weeks, and it needs one hour at the bench plus one basted fitting. We keep the pattern, so the second coat needs neither.

The melton surface at close range, the nap raised and cropped flat so the weave underneath barely shows

740 grammes. Milled until the weave disappears, which is why a melton coat cuts the wind and a woven one does not.

Worn under it, most often

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The Thornleigh, answered

How do I wash it?

You mostly do not. Brush it down the nap with a stiff clothes brush once a week and hang it on a broad hanger, not a wire one. Dry-clean it once a year at the end of February and no more often — solvent is what ages a melton, not wear. Rain does it no harm at all; hang it away from the radiator and leave it.

How long does a made-to-measure one take?

Seven to nine weeks from the first fitting. One hour measuring and choosing cloth, two weeks until the basted coat is ready, a second fitting of about twenty minutes, then four to six weeks of making. Order before the end of August and it is on your back by the middle of October, which is the only deadline that matters here.

Can you alter it later?

There are 4cm of cloth left in the side seams and 5cm in the hem, on purpose. Waist in or out £45, sleeves £38, hem £30, a new lining £140, and all of them free the first time within a month of the coat reaching you. Your measurements stay on a card in the drawer under the window for as long as the workroom exists.

What if the ready size is wrong when it arrives?

Send it back with the label in the box within thirty days and the money goes back to your card, or tell us what is wrong and post it to the workroom instead — sleeves and hem come back altered inside a fortnight at no charge. If the chest is wrong, swap the size; we hold at least two of each.

Where is it actually made?

Upstairs at 14 Priestpopple, on the two benches by the window. Cloth is woven in West Yorkshire and in the Scottish Borders; the horn buttons come from a turner in Walsall; the thread is Irish. Nothing is sent out except the lining cloth, which is dyed in Macclesfield because nobody nearer does it well.

The finished Thornleigh cuff on the bench with the spare horn buttons and thread laid out beside it

Order the Thornleigh · £1,180

Ink navy, size 40, in stock and out of the door today. Any other size or cloth is seven to nine weeks.

Free UK delivery · 30 days to return · first alteration free